V Scale Bouldering. Video on American V-Scale Here is a comprehensive video on th
Video on American V-Scale Here is a comprehensive video on the V-scale by Jake Mason, Head Routesetter at Yonder and Hang. While sport climbing has a wide variety of grading systems used by different countries, when it comes to bouldering, most countries have adopted either the Font or V scale grading system. For "clean aid climbing" (i. Oct 12, 2020 · Bouldering grades on the V Scale tend to be clumped together, so breaking into the next grade clump can be exciting. Each grade increment indicates a noticeable increase in Mar 24, 2022 · Travel 10 Things You Didn't Know about Bouldering Grades Ever wonder how the B-Scale relates to the V-scale relates to the Fb scale relates to the Dankyū system? We've got answers. This guide explains the different grading systems used in rock climbing and offers tips to level up your skills. An explanation fo the main two main bouldering grades systems: Font and V including the history of bouldering grades and why they're used. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? Apr 27, 2025 · The V Scale makes climbing grades easier to understand by using just numbers. Nov 30, 2025 · The French scale is commonly used for sport climbing worldwide, using grades like 6a or 9a to indicate route difficulty and is often seen in international competitions. V is only bouldering, V5 is font 6c+ V6 is font 7a font is the bouldering grading system that's used in Europe a lot, French is for sport climbing. During the 20th century, bouldering evolved into a separate discipline. Based off my experience climbing 5 or 6 V grades below my max, I imagine for someone like Daniel Wood the difference between V10 and V11 isn't any much more than the difference between V6 and V7. May 31, 2025 · Understanding Bouldering Grades: From Your First V0 to the Impossible V17 May 31, 2025 by alpin3climb3r tagged bouldering, climbing, grades, lifestyle, training, travel, v-scale The Hueco Scale Bouldering grades fall under the Hueco Scale, aka the V Scale, and look something like this: Letter Every bouldering grade begins with a V. Climbing Magazine | Bouldering, Trad, Alpine, and Sport Climbing I go bouldering at a gym in Norway and this is their grading system. aid climbing equipment is used but only where the equipment is temporary and not permanently hammered into the rock), the most common system is the C-system (e. For example, V2 and V3 climbs are both considered a small step up from true beginner climbs, so climbing your first V4 or V5 can sometimes be really exciting. The V-Scale is used for bouldering, ranging from V0 (easiest) to V16 (most difficult). Mar 17, 2023 · Bouldering grades used all over the world Below is a list of regions alongside which bouldering grading system they use. It starts at V0 (easiest) and increases numerically (V1, V2, etc. The above appears courtesy of the American Alpine Journal. And some history lessons. Nov 3, 2023 · Climbing an 8a in the Font scale or a V11 in the V scale is a testament to the climber's dedication and skill, marking their place in the ongoing story of bouldering's evolution. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. Oct 15, 2021 · From sport climbing to bouldering, different types of rock climbing each have their own system, known as bouldering grades, to assess a route’s overall difficulty. There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. Mar 30, 2023 · Here's a brief introduction to how rock climbing grades are applied and how they differ from outdoors to indoors "Although fundamental differences in climbing style make direct comparison between bouldering and route climbing difficult, the colors in the above and below tables correspond to roughly equivalent sets of grades. V-Grades focus on physical difficulty, including strength, technique, and problem-solving skills. The scale helps climbers assess the complexity and technical demands of a climb, guiding their preparation and skill development. A 6a in the Font system or a V3 in the V scale might be seen as moderate challenges, but the tales, methods, and memories accompanying each climb add depth to the bouldering narrative. Like stepping on an uncalibrated bathroom scale, use V grades as a benchmark for trends and progress. It ranges from V0 for beginners to V17 and above for elite climbers. Apr 11, 2025 · V-GRADES V-grades or the V-scale (also sometimes called the 'Hueco' scale) was established in 1991 by American bouldering pioneer John 'Verm' Sherman - that's where the V comes from! Sherman used the scale to grade problems in his book Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide. Currently, V17 is the highest known grade, but most of us climbers will probably stop at V3, thank you very much. Bouldering grades and bouldering grades conversion charts for the popular V-Scale and Font-Scale bouldering grades. From V0 to V15, unlock the secrets of difficulty ratings and elevate your climbing game. Although there have been various rating systems used throughout the history of bouldering, modern problems usually use either the V-scale or the Fontainebleau scale. Apr 1, 2023 · 507 likes, 14 comments - vitalbrooklyn on April 1, 2023: "The V scale is here! Know what grade you’re climbing with more precision with our updated grade tags ⚫️⚪️ #vitalclimbinggym #vitalbklyn". The V-Grade is a scale used to rate the difficulty of boulder problems. Climb better by learning climbing grades. These numbers offer a rough estimate of how complex a boulder problem is, with some gyms also offering beginner-friendly labels like V0–V3 to help new climbers ease in. The V-Scale is a grading system used to measure the difficulty of bouldering problems. org. [7][3][8] In 1992, Sherman and Bruce Pottenger designed the first commercially available bouldering pad with the "nylon sleeve, carrying straps, dual-density replaceable foam" that Mar 25, 2024 · Learn how to convert climbing grades, common challenges, and resources for accurate conversions. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Climbing Grades at Tufas: Circuit Grading Taking advantage of the subjectivity of climbing, many gyms across the world have moved to grade climbs on a circuit. 0 to 5. With all different grading systems: Font, V scale, Danky or British, a bouldering grades conversion table is your help. e. It originated at Hueco Tanks in Texas and has become the standard system for rating boulder problems in North America and many other countries. This is in contrast to the French and Font systems, which use letter and number combinations, such as 7a or 6c+. The higher the grade, the longer it takes to get to the next one. The first part of the grade gives the climb’s overall difficulty, and the second part indicates how technical the climb is. ), typically up to V17 for the most difficult challenges. Compare bouldering grades across different systems including Hueco (V Scale), Fontainebleau, and more. 12-, or that a 5. Jun 23, 2024 · V-Scale vs. Confused by rock climbing grades? Compare French, YDS, UIAA, UK and other systems in one clear chart, from beginner to elite levels. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of… Read More »Climbing Grade We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It is a big gap from the perspective of the V10 climber, but is it really a big gap for the V16 climber? Jan 28, 2022 · YDS, French, V-Scale, Font What are climbing grades and how to use them to climb safely and progress more rapidly? One thing to know is We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Explore the origins, structure, and significance of the V-scale bouldering grading system. Both are considered to be performance high-water marks, requiring not just power but precision technique and a razor-like mental edge. Dec 28, 2021 · A guide to how bouldering grade scales correspond to each other and fit into roped climbing, including the Font and V scales. Jun 23, 2024 · Whether you are navigating the V-scale in the United States or tackling the iconic Fontainebleau grades in France, having a solid grasp of bouldering grades can enhance your climbing experience and help you set appropriate goals. Class 2 Simple scrambling, with the possibility of occasional use of the hands. 14b. Aug 29, 2025 · Used primarily for bouldering, the V-scale runs from VB (intro) to V17 (elite). 6 (easiest) to 5. Feb 14, 2024 · Learn everything about bouldering grades, including how difficulty is measured and the difference between different grading scales. Side-by-side comparison of physical and technical demands between the V scale and the French scale reveal significant discrepancies. But here’s the gist: For Bouldering (shorter, harder climbs), we use the V Scale: It goes from V0 (easiest) to… well, as high as someone can stomach. On the other hand, the YDS is used for roped climbing, with ratings like 5. As mixed climbing has become more popular, the subset of “sport drytooling” has gained traction too: climbing bare rock, with ice climbing equipment, but with no actual ice in sight. Aug 29, 2025 · How to Understand Bouldering Levels and Climbing Grades at Any Gym - including the V Scale, Circuits, and the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). Sep 17, 2024 · Climbing grades, from 8a to V-scale, serve as a loose guideline and filter for climbing consumers. National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team. The ‘V’ grades go from V0 to V15, and are potentially open ended We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The system, created by John Sherman, helps climbers understand the challenge level of a route. C3+). Learn your grades and apply them to your climbing and problem setting. Feb 9, 2024 · UK Climbing Grades UK bouldering grades are a bit trickier to understand and not seen frequently but they tell much more about a climb than the V Scale or Font grading. Dec 9, 2024 · Learn the ins and outs of climbing grades with our comprehensive guide! Understand the differences between systems, how they measure difficulty, and what they mean for climbers of all levels. . Nov 8, 2023 · Discover the definitive guide to bouldering grades. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Apr 27, 2025 · The V Scale makes climbing grades easier to understand by using just numbers. Nov 4, 2009 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The ‘V’ grades go from V0 to V15, and are potentially open ended I think the color coded (yellow, green, red, blue, etc) bouldering system in gyms beats the V scale and is less likely to discourage or confuse new climbers. Dec 29, 2025 · What Is the V Scale in Bouldering? The V Scale is a grading system that rates the difficulty of bouldering problems from V0 (easiest) to V17 (hardest). Few recreational climbers will reach V8. Indoors and out, V grades are suggestions of difficulty fortified by consensus. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. Jul 26, 2019 · V grades are relative and can depend on the setters in the gym. I think the color coded (yellow, green, red, blue, etc) bouldering system in gyms beats the V scale and is less likely to discourage or confuse new climbers. [7][3][8] In 1992, Sherman and Bruce Pottenger designed the first commercially available bouldering pad with the "nylon sleeve, carrying straps, dual-density replaceable foam" that Convert North American climbing grades to UK and European scales, and compare bouldering V-grades to roped climbs. The class 5 portion of the class scale is primarily a rock climbing classification system, while classes 1–4 are used for hiking and scrambling. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. As time passed US climbers were also developing their bouldering and a system to grade the boulders to go with it. YDS When it comes to indoor climbing grades, two popular grading systems are the V-Scale and the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System). 13d, you’re in the right place. 15 (most difficult). Learn about the Yosemite and French grading systems and how the two compare. Feb 26, 2021 · A guide to the eccentric world of climbing grading, looking at grade comparison, what the different systems mean and why it's all just so unusual! Apr 27, 2025 · Bouldering grades are often convertible between the Font Scale and the V-Scale. Easy to read too much into it as a beginner. Get help comparing bouldering, sport, and trad climbing grades. font I also from France and uses the same grades so it's a bit confusing but that's just the way it is Oct 15, 2021 · From sport climbing to bouldering, different types of rock climbing each have their own system, known as bouldering grades, to assess a route’s overall difficulty. Are bouldering problems graded differently in gyms than outdoors? The same V-grade system is used both indoors and out. However, in gyms, V0 to V5/V6 problems tend to be graded soft, or easier, than the same grade on outdoor boulders. 11 route couldn't (shouldn't?) contain any V7 moves. [27]" Jun 23, 2024 · Whether you are navigating the V-scale in the United States or tackling the iconic Fontainebleau grades in France, having a solid grasp of bouldering grades can enhance your climbing experience and help you set appropriate goals. Sep 16, 2021 · Everything you ever wanted to know about bouldering grades in one place, including a bouldering grade conversion chart from the V Scale to Font Scale. Just wondering for anyone who climbs at a boulder lab gym in Australia, I know it can be difficult/inaccurate to make grading comparisons, especially because it varies from gym to gym, but what would be the rough comparison from boulder lab's 1-9 rankings compared to the V rankings in America? The higher the grade, the longer it takes to get to the next one. Please visit them on the web at www. A legendary boulderer at the time, John Sherman, created the ‘V’ grade system – the ‘V’ stood for ‘Verm or Vermin’ which was his nickname at the time. Why? Because boulderers are shaped like V’s, with broad shoulders and very skinny legs that come to a point at their feet. This system ranks boulder problems based on difficulty, with V0 being the easiest and V-difficulties progressively increasing in challenge. Sherman was the author of the notable 1991 bouldering guidebook, Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide, [6] which launched the important V-grade rating system. 15d in difficulty. For example, a 7c Font Scale grade usually translates to V9 on the V-Scale. Feb 2, 2025 · The "V" scale is used for bouldering routes, with V0 representing the easiest and V17 meaning the most difficult. Know what's up! Understand the standard scale systems of climbing grades and bouldering ratings with Pelican's ultimate guide. When people say they're a "V# climber", what does that mean exactly? If they're a "V7 climber", for example, does that mean that the hardest climb they've ever sent is a V7? Sep 19, 2025 · When Mixed Grades were first introduced, it was all but a given that a “mixed” pitch would involve ice climbing—usually a hanging dagger—at some point. [1] The current definition for each class is: [1] Class 1 Hiking or running on a trail. Each grade increment indicates a noticeable increase in Sherman was the author of the notable 1991 bouldering guidebook, Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide, [6] which launched the important V-grade rating system. Sep 17, 2024 · If you’re trying to understand how a 7C+ boulder grade converts to the V scale or sport climbing grades like 5. This guide translates the abstract arithmetic of the V-Scale (or Vermin Scale) into the tangible biomechanics, history, and technique required to move from the gym floor to the cutting edge of human potential. Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. Class 3 Scrambling. The "YDS" scale is used to measure the difficulty of top-rope climbs, which range from 5. Jan 28, 2022 · YDS, French, V-Scale, Font What are climbing grades and how to use them to climb safely and progress more rapidly? One thing to know is May 31, 2020 · Everything you need to know about climbing grades in one place. Wrapping Up: Grades like 8a in Font and V11 in the V scale are pivotal milestones for climbers, representing a level of skill and conditioning that few attain. "Although fundamental differences in climbing style make direct comparison between bouldering and route climbing difficult, the colors in the above and below tables correspond to roughly equivalent sets of grades. [27]" Aug 18, 2017 · In this article we go over the nuances of rock climbing grades, indoor and outdoor, what they mean, and how to understand them. Nov 3, 2023 · In contrast, the V scale, which began in the United States, offers its own insights into the evolution of bouldering. americanalpineclub. General timelines indicate that from bouldering day one, getting to V4 can take a year, V5 two years, V6 three years, and five years to V7. What does the ‘V’ stand for in bouldering grades? The V stands for Vermin, this is a nod to John ‘Vermin’ Sherman who developed the system in the 1990s in North America, more specifically at the Hueco Tanks State Historic Site. Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re wondering how 8A+ converts to the V Scale or the Yosemite Decimal System, the short answer is: 8A+ equals V12 and roughly 5. Jun 5, 2023 · Both indoor and outdoor bouldering is graded, but you’ll find that outdoor climbing will use either the V-Scale or the Font-Scale, which are the two most common bouldering scales. How these grades are used and understood differs wildly. Climbers can use these systems to track their progress as they work toward building new skill sets. The two main bouldering grading systems are the V Scale and the Font Scale (short for the Fontainebleau Scale). Get to grips with bouldering grades and learn how to use them to navigate the sport, from beginner-friendly V0 routes to the most challenging V16 ascents. But they don’t. Learn about climbing and bouldering ratings, including how route difficulty is measured and the difference between a rating and a grade. For our bouldering enthusiasts, we use the V-scale. Apr 27, 2025 · Bouldering grades are often convertible between the Font Scale and the V-Scale. That being said, if you can Mar 31, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Comprehensive guide for climbers of all levels. He walks you through indoor bouldering grades and discusses some of the common disagreements among climbers when it comes to climbing grades. Grades higher than V7/V8 tend to be graded more equally indoors and out. [3] Individual problems are assigned ratings based on difficulty. The V Scale was developed in the US and is an open-ended system currently starting with V0 for the easiest bouldering problems and going all the way up to V17 for the super-skilled pros. Apr 26, 2021 · I'm sure many have heard this before or have some general sense of bouldering grades related to route climbing – such as V4 is similar to a 5. These figures are meant to provide a general sense of the level of skill expected for a route. g.
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